Less than an hour and a half from Porto lies the city of Coimbra, famous for its university and connected to Aragón through Saint Isabel of Portugal.
The University of Coimbra is not only the oldest in Portugal, but also one of the oldest in Europe, as it was founded back in 1290. Thus, it is most fitting to start a visit to the historic center of Coimbra by approaching the expansive Patio of the Schools, which houses the most charismatic buildings of the old university.
Located on the high ground of the city, it also offers a view of the urban core that descends to the Mondego River, towards which the bridges will need to be directed later. But for now, it is about thoroughly discovering the monumental university buildings, among which the well-known Royal Palace or Palace of the Schools stands out, as it historically combined educational use with periods during which it housed various Portuguese monarchs.
It is worth entering the palace and appreciating the beauty of the Sala dos Capelos, the Hall of Arms, or the Chapel of Saint Michael. However, if there is one essential visit, it is the Joanina Library. A dreamlike place filled with books and Rococo decorations. Possibly the best spot to appreciate the fitting description of Coimbra by the brilliant Saramago: “a city with two heads, one of its own and another added, full of knowledge and some immaterial wonders.”
After the visit, one steps outside and should let themselves be carried away through a maze of streets and alleys where, interestingly, stately Renaissance mansions alternate with more mundane facades that house the so-called «university republics.» There are over twenty of them, with such curious names as the Palace of Madness, the Republic of Bacchus, or that of the Ghosts. What are they? They are spaces managed by students where everything from interesting cultural events to memorable parties is held.
After strolling through this area, it is good to head towards the two cathedrals of Coimbra, the Old and the New. The older one has Romanesque origins and almost resembles a castle from the outside. However, its ecclesiastical character can be felt inside and in its spiritual Gothic cloister. In contrast, the nearby New Cathedral or Sé Nova has a more ornate appearance since it was constructed between the 16th and 17th centuries, merging Mannerist and Baroque art.
After visiting both temples, it is a matter of continuing to stroll through the historic center and letting the icons of Coimbra’s heritage emerge along the way. We might find ourselves near the university area with the Botanical Garden or the Republic Square and the relaxed atmosphere of its terraces.
In another direction, one will cross the Almedina Arch, which once integrated into the medieval wall. There, we will also see the Church of Saint Bartholomew. Not far off lies the Commerce Square, the city’s social epicenter. There are more interesting squares, such as that of May 8, near the Monastery of Santa Cruz. From there, one can descend along the central historic shopping street, the Rua Ferreira Borges, to reach almost the riverbank and begin walking through Largo de Partagem.
Precisely from that avenue, one can cross the Mondego River via the Santa Clara Bridge to explore the other bank of Coimbra, which is also extremely interesting. To start, this side hosts the monastery of Santa Clara itself. A cenobium whose foundation in the 13th century was personally involved by the Aragonese Saint Isabel of Portugal. Although that initial construction was so close to the riverbank that it suffered excessive flooding, several centuries later a new monastery was built, which is now visited to admire its Mannerist-style church and great cloister, just as the faithful seek in the convent the burial place of this saint who is the patroness of the province of Zaragoza.
By the way, next to this historic monastery is an absolutely unmissable attraction for those escaping to Coimbra with children. Here is the historic theme park Portugal dos Pequenitos, where one can take a virtual tour of all of Portugal reduced to miniatures and three-dimensional replicas through which to venture and capture some of the most fun photos of the trip.
However, perhaps others prefer to visit Coimbra as a romantic getaway. Well, on this same bank of the Mondego, they will find the perfect accommodation for their stay. It is known as Quinta das Lágrimas, a historic space with its own legend that recounts the tragic love between the Infante Peter of Portugal and the Spanish Inés de Castro. A romance that did not have a happy ending, but can be quite inspiring for spending a few days in this welcoming city of the neighboring country.
