Llanes has something that is not abundant. We can stroll alongside the Cantabrian Sea and, almost without taking our eyes off the water, discover in the distance the mountains of the Sierra del Cuera. Nestled between these two landscapes is a fishing village steeped in medieval history, adorned with palaces, beaches, Indian architecture, and even a breakwater transformed into a work of art.
But Llanes is also the gateway to an extraordinary coastline. The municipality boasts more than thirty beaches, fishing villages, cliffs, viewpoints, and paths that invite visitors to extend their stay.
So now it’s time to choose. Here are seven things we wouldn’t miss on a visit to Llanes.
1. Getting Lost in the Historical Center
Let’s start walking.
And it’s wise to do so without much haste because the historical center of Llanes retains much of the town’s history. Its medieval origins are still evident in the wall built in the 13th century and in the Torreón, an ancient defensive structure that has withstood the test of time.
From there, we can discover palaces and grand houses as we move through its streets: the Palacio de Gastañaga, the Palacio de Posada Herrera, and the imposing Palacio del Duque de Estrada are just a few examples.
It’s also essential to visit the Basilica of Santa María del Conceyu, which was started in the 13th century and is one of the major religious buildings in Llanes.
Every now and then, it’s good to stop gazing at facades and look down. In the streets of the historical center, we will find verses from Poemas de Llanes by Celso Amieva, reproduced in wrought iron on the ground.
A wonderful way to discover that Llanes can also be read while strolling.
2. Climbing to the Paseo de San Pedro
Now it’s time to gain a bit of elevation.
Not too much. Just enough to understand why Llanes has such a special relationship with the surrounding landscape.
The Paseo de San Pedro runs along a natural promontory situated near the urban area and offers one of the best viewpoints in the town.
From here, we have the Cantabrian Sea in front of us, the beach of Sablón practically at our feet, and Llanes to one side. But just turning around reveals the Sierra del Cuera.
Sea and mountains in a single panorama.
3. Heading to the Port and the Cubes of Memory
We descend back toward the center and look for the port.
Llanes was a significant fishing village for centuries, and its port remains a central part of the town. But here, we find something that is hard to see in another port along the Cantabrian coast.
We must walk to the breakwater.
On the large concrete blocks protecting the port is the work of Agustín Ibarrola: the Cubes of Memory.
The Basque artist began this intervention in 2001, developing it in various phases until 2006. More than two hundred blocks were transformed into a massive open-air canvas where figurative and abstract forms interact with the sea, the port, and the landscape.
The result is one of the most recognizable images of Llanes.
4. Taking a Dip at El Sablón… or Continuing to Toró
There’s no need to drive to the beach.
Llanes has three sandy areas within the town: El Sablón, Puertu Chicu, and Toró. And each is very different.
El Sablón is the most urban. It is located next to the historical center and at the foot of the Paseo de San Pedro, allowing us to transition from walking through medieval streets to stepping onto the sand in just a few minutes.
Puertu Chicu is much smaller and more discreet. Additionally, its appearance changes significantly depending on the tides.
And then there’s Toró.
Here, the landscape again surprises. Large pointed rock formations emerge from the sand and water, creating one of the most distinctive beaches along the Llanes coast.
If we can only choose one for its visual uniqueness, Toró has a strong case.
5. Seeking the Best Views of the Cantabrian Sea
We have already been up to the Paseo de San Pedro, but it would be a shame to think that we have exhausted the viewpoints.
Now, it’s time to leave the town.
One of the most interesting spots is the mirador de La Boriza, situated above the beaches of Andrín and Ballota. From here, the coast opens up before us with the Cantabrian Sea in front and mountains complementing the landscape inward.
If we continue exploring the municipality, we will find another privileged viewpoint: the Alto de Torimbia.
Below, the beach of Torimbia draws a great crescent shape alongside the sea. It’s one of those places where it’s worth pausing before heading down to the sand.
Because in Llanes, often, the enjoyment of the beach begins long before reaching the shore.
6. Choosing a Beach. And Then Another
Here lies the true challenge of any trip to Llanes.
Which beach do we choose?
The municipality has more than thirty beaches, some of which are among the most well-known images of the Asturian coast.
There is Poo, with its peculiar entrance from the sea and a landscape that changes completely with the tides. There is Barro, surrounded by a particularly photogenic environment. And there is Torimbia, broad, open, and spectacular to view from above.
We can continue to Cuevas del Mar, where the water has eroded the rocks to create arches and whimsical shapes.
And there’s still one of the most famous natural curiosities in Asturias: Gulpiyuri.
This is a small beach located inland. The sea is not visible from the sand, but the waters of the Cantabrian Sea reach it through openings in the rock.
The temptation will be to try to see them all.
Better to resist.
Choosing two or three, walking, waiting for the tide to change, and leaving some for the next visit seems a much more sensible plan.
7. Discovering The Cinematic Llanes
Some landscapes may seem familiar even if we have never been here.
There’s a reason for that.
Llanes has been the backdrop for numerous films, series, and audiovisual productions. Its beaches, palaces, villages, paths, and cliffs have transformed the municipality into an enormous natural set.
To take advantage of this cinematic heritage, Llanes de Cine was created, an itinerary that allows visitors to discover up to 25 filming locations.
Some are located within the town itself: the historical center, the Paseo de San Pedro, the port, the beach of Toró, or the Palacio de Partarríu.
Others require us to venture further afield…
