Traveling the nearly 180 kilometers that separate Burgos and León takes you into the very heart of the autonomous community of Castilla y León, a territory that embodies the two souls reflected in its name: Castilian and Leonese. Both are perfectly represented in two cities that are must-visit destinations for history enthusiasts and lovers of hearty cuisine.
Begin the Journey: Burgos
The hallmark of Burgos is its iconic Cathedral of Santa María. In many ways, it is the quintessential Gothic temple in Spain. Its construction began in the 13th century, and it continues to amaze everyone who admires this colossal ensemble of pointed arches, ribbed vaults, flying buttresses, rose windows, sculptures, and pinnacles. The trip to Burgos is worthwhile just to see the exterior. However, it’s essential to cross the threshold of its doors and enjoy its interior as well.
Yet, the list of monuments to visit in Burgos doesn’t end here. One should not miss the Monastery of Las Huelgas, which can be reached after a pleasant walk along the Arlanzón River. Additionally, a visit to the Cartuja de Miraflores, located a bit farther from the center, is also recommended. In the city center, one must pass through the Arco de Santa María and take a stroll around the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de la Libertad.
Furthermore, no one should forget to enter the Museum of Human Evolution. It offers a comprehensive lesson on who we are and where we come from, thanks to discoveries made in the famous archaeological site of Atapuerca, located a few kilometers from the city. After that visit, one must cross the Arlanzón River again for two things: first, to approach the sculpture of El Cid, and then to soak in the sunset at the Paseo del Espolón. A perfect farewell before continuing the journey.
The Fields of Castilla
A great guide for this trip between Burgos and León is the poetry of Antonio Machado, particularly from his work Campos de Castilla. The route between the two cities still reflects many of the sensations and landscapes that the Sevillian poet observed, especially when it comes to discovering the vast plains of the Meseta and the immense cereal fields that turned Castilla into a grand pantry.
So much wheat was cultivated here that locals couldn’t consume it all and had to export it instead. Yet this task was not easy, just as it was difficult to access other types of products in these regions. That is why the Canal de Castilla was constructed in an attempt to reach the sea. Although it never accomplished that, this hydraulic infrastructure remains one of the attractions to explore during the journey between Burgos and León.
A good place to do so is in the town of Melgar de Fernamental. Here, one can enjoy the scenery and monuments as striking as its Renaissance Town Hall or its cathedral-like Assumption Church. Additionally, one should take a walk along the Canal de Castilla, and it’s even possible to sail on it aboard a tourist boat.
This can also be done in the town of Frómista in the Palencia province. While it does require a detour of a few kilometers from the most direct path between Burgos and León, it is well worth it to discover its Church of San Martín, which is part of the Camino de Santiago, and to admire the quadruple lock of the Canal de Castilla that overcomes a significant elevation in the terrain.
Another highly recommended stop on this itinerary is the town of Sahagún, now in the province of León. This town also forms part of the Jacobean Way through the Meseta, but unlike other regions characterized by stone and Romanesque and Gothic arts, Sahagún stands out for its various temples built primarily of brick and inspired by Mudejar artistic style.
End of the Journey: León
In total, with stops and some detours, the journey from Burgos to León stretches just over 200 kilometers. A distance that seems short because of the various attractions encountered along the way. And the culmination of the trip is spectacular. León is a city with an absolutely overwhelming heritage.
It boasts a wealth of architecture from all periods, ranging from Roman and medieval walls to contemporary art at MUSAC, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Castilla y León, as well as the harmonious Renaissance and Baroque styles of its main square and the modernist art of the dazzling Antoni Gaudí, who designed the famous Casa Botines here.
However, if there is a monument in León that stands out above the rest, it is the Cathedral of Santa María de la Regla. Alongside that of Burgos, they are the two greatest examples of French-style Gothic art in Spain. While the Burgos temple is noted for the beauty of its stone forms, the uniqueness of the León cathedral comes from its stained glass windows, which bathe the entire temple in magical light.
Much like at the beginning of the journey, this temple alone is worth the experience. The thousands of pilgrims who pass through León do not miss it, nor do the casual tourists. Both groups marvel at this jewel that is nearly 800 years old. Moreover, both pilgrims and tourists gather with locals to explore the Barrio Húmedo, a fabulous maze of streets filled with bars and restaurants, ensuring they leave with the best culinary memories from this journey through the heart of the Castilla y León community.
