There are places that surprise with what they hold within a small space. Comillas is one of them. This village on the western coast of Cantabria brings together the sea, architecture, history, and one of the most captivating modernist ensembles in northern Spain.
Here, Antoni Gaudí left his mark, as did other prominent architects and artists from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. All this in a locality that has not lost its maritime character, where after visiting palaces and monuments, one can end the day facing the Cantabrian Sea.
Comillas is best explored on foot and at a leisurely pace. Therefore, it’s best to forget about the car for a while and start walking. Here are seven must-see attractions.
1. Gaudí’s Capricho
It’s impossible to start anywhere else. The Capricho is the most well-known image of Comillas and one of the few works that Antoni Gaudí constructed outside of Catalonia.
Also known as Villa Quijano, it was built between 1883 and 1885 and belongs to the architect’s early phase. However, many of the obsessions that would later make his work unmistakable already appear here: nature, music, color, and an architecture in which nothing seems conventional.
The first thing that catches the eye is its cylindrical tower. Next come the sunflowers that adorn its ceramics, the brick, the iron, the playful forms, and the stained glass where music and nature once again meet.
But it is worth not just sticking to the facade. The interior reveals how Gaudí designed the house based on light, orientation, and the needs of its inhabitants.
It is one of those constructions that appear different depending on the viewpoint. And that’s probably why it’s best to take a complete look around before we leave.
2. The Palacio de Sobrellano
You don’t have to go far. Almost next to the Capricho is another of Comillas’ great monuments: the Palacio de Sobrellano.
This building was designed by the Catalan architect Joan Martorell and is closely linked to Antonio López y López, the first Marquis of Comillas, a key figure in understanding the transformation of the town during the 19th century.
Its neo-Gothic style, dimensions, and location make it hard to miss. It is a building meant to impress, and it still does.
Next to the palace is the Chapel-Pantheon of the Marqueses of Comillas, which is part of the same monumental complex. Its decoration and furnishings involved prominent artists of the time, and even Gaudí designed some of its furniture.
The Capricho and Sobrellano are so close that visiting both allows one to quickly understand why Comillas possesses such a unique architectural heritage.
3. The Pontifical University
Just look up to find our next stop.
The former Pontifical University looms over Comillas from above and is an inseparable part of the town’s skyline. Its location is no accident: from various points in the village, it appears on the horizon as a massive backdrop.
The complex also arose linked to the drive of the Marquis of Comillas, involving some names associated with that extraordinary architectural transformation of the town.
Beyond the artistic details, it is worth appreciating the building itself and its location. From this area, one can better understand the geography of Comillas: the urban core below, the surrounding hills, and the Cantabrian Sea framing the landscape.
And it also reveals something that will recur throughout the visit: in Comillas, architecture and landscape always go hand in hand.
4. Wandering through the historic center
After so much monumental architecture, it’s time to change the atmosphere a bit.
Because Comillas is not just about its grand buildings. An important part of its charm lies in strolling through its cobbled streets, encountering traditional houses, small squares, shops, and terraces, and letting hidden nooks appear without having sought them out.
The Plaza de la Constitución is one of the historic center’s reference points. There you’ll find the church of San Cristóbal, and from its surroundings, one can continue toward the Corro de Campíos, another of the liveliest areas of the village.
There is no need to plan a too strict route. In fact, it’s probably better to do just the opposite.
Comillas is the perfect size for wandering. And between monuments, it’s good to leave time to sit at a terrace, look at facades, or pop into one of its shops.
Because that’s also what a getaway is about.
5. The cemetery and its Exterminating Angel
It may seem odd to recommend a cemetery among the must-see attractions in a tourist town. Until one arrives at the cemetery of Comillas.
Located on a hill, it occupies the ruins of an old Gothic structure. But what has made this place one of the most recognizable images of the village is the figure that overlooks it from above: the Exterminating Angel, a work by the sculptor Josep Llimona.
The sculpture, with its wings spread, dominates the site and creates an unforgettable scene.
Additionally, the location offers a vantage point overlooking the sea and the village of Comillas itself. The stone, the ruins, the sculptures, and the Cantabrian Sea form a rather unusual combination.
It may not be the most cheerful visit on the itinerary, but it is certainly one of the most surprising.
6. Descending to the port and the beach of Comillas
We have already seen the modernist and monumental Comillas. Now it’s time to encounter the maritime village.
From the center, we can descend toward the port and the seaside promenade until we reach the beach of Comillas, a wide urban beach located next to the fishing port.
It’s a good place to trade palaces for the smell of the sea and wander aimlessly for a while. In summer, this area naturally becomes one of the busiest spots in town.
The promenade also provides the perfect excuse for a culinary stop. We are in Cantabria, so trying some fried calamari while looking out at the sea never seems like a bad idea.
And if there’s still an urge to walk, it’s worth continuing along the coastal surroundings and looking for some viewpoints. Comillas is also enjoyed while gazing at the Cantabrian Sea.
7. Visiting Oyambre
For our final suggestion, we will need to venture a little further from the center.
Close to Comillas stretches the Oyambre Natural Park, one of the great landscapes of the western Cantabrian coast. Here, the scenery changes completely: beaches, dunes, marshes, estuaries, cliffs, and wide open spaces emerge.
The beach of Oyambre is one of its most well-known sights. It is a vast stretch of sand facing the Cantabrian Sea that invites both passing a few hours next to the sea and walking while taking in the landscape.
And that
