In the heart of Zaragoza, where the ancient stones of the Aljafería Palace whisper tales of kings, conquests, and parliaments, an exhibition has transformed a historical monument into a global cultural beacon. «Goya, from Museum to Palace«, inaugurated in December 2024, celebrates its first anniversary with an impressive milestone: over 300,000 visitors from all continents. This exhibition, which temporarily brings the masterpieces of Francisco de Goya from the Zaragoza Museum—currently closed for renovations—to this emblematic building, not only pays tribute to the genius from Fuendetodos but also interacts with the very essence of Aragón and Spain. For an international Spanish-speaking audience, from Mexico to Argentina or the Philippines, this initiative represents a unique window into the legacy of a universal painter, set in a location that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Origin of a Bold Idea: It all began with a temporary closure that became an opportunity. In November 2023, the Government of Aragón announced the renovation of the Zaragoza Museum, which involved relocating its permanent collection. Marta Fernández, president of the Aragonese Cortes, saw it as a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity: «From the very first moment, I knew that the best place for those works of Goya was the Aljafería, rather than dispersing or storing them.» Her vision, supported by Aragonese president Jorge Azcón, culminated in a partnership agreement signed in May 2024. Thus was born “Goya, from Museum to Palace,” an exhibition that unites 18th-century art with the Mudéjar, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture of the palace.
Azcón proudly sums it up: «This initiative reaffirms our commitment to Goya’s bicentennial, with Aragonese capital.» And the numbers support it: the exhibition has become the most visited in the history of Aragón, attracting tourists, families, students, and experts. Fernández adds: «It has been made possible thanks to institutional collaboration, and it reinforces the value of the Aljafería as a home for all.»
A Journey through the Genius of Goya
The exhibition unfolds in the Christian part of the palace, where Goya’s works converse with polychromed ceilings and halls rich in history. The visitor is greeted by the iconic bust of Goya by Mariano Benlliure—the same one that inspires the Goya Awards of Spanish cinema. From there, visitors enter the room of Pedro IV, dedicated to graphic works: engravings, drawings, and prints that reveal the artist’s inner world, with periodic rotations to preserve their delicacy.
The background room highlights the influence of the Bayeu brothers and José Luzán, Goya’s early mentors in Aragón. In the third section, his Italian phase is explored: the Italian Notebook, his participation in the Parma Academy, and early religious paintings, such as the series of the Virgin of the Pillar.
The Throne Room, a jewel of the palace, houses court portraits: Charles IV and Maria Luisa of Parma (on loan from the Prado), Ferdinand VII, and invited works that add dynamism. The first was the «Portrait of José de Cistué y Coll» (1788), from the Museo de Huesca; then followed the tender «Virgin with Child» (1772-1773), from a private collection; and currently shines the «Portrait of Luis de Borbón» (1783), with its royal decorations painted in masterful Goya style. A new piece will soon arrive, keeping the freshness of the exhibition alive.
A Global Attraction: Visitors from All Horizons
With 300,000 tickets sold between December 2024 and November 2025, the exhibition has exceeded expectations. From Spain, 185,000 visitors arrived, with 73,000 being Aragonese, and the rest from Catalonia, Madrid, Valencia, Andalusia, and the Basque Country. Internationally, 117,000 came from France, Italy, South and North America, and the European Union. «It is an international attraction for Aragón,» emphasizes Azcón.
Accessibility is key: guided and free visits, discounts for seniors over 65, large families, people with disabilities, and the unemployed. School groups coexist with local «hosts» inviting friends, fostering inclusive cultural tourism.
Beyond the Walls: Events that Enrich the Experience
The Aljafería is not limited to static canvases; it vibrates with activities. In June 2025, the «Goya al Natural» cycle fused music and dance in the north portico: baroque with Modern Baroque, flamenco by Sara Calero and the Ensemble Bayona orchestra, attracting 450 spectators.
In September, «The Tapas Enter the Palace» united gastronomy and art. Talks like «Table, Cava, and Carlos IV’s Bouquet» by Carmen Abad explored the Goyaesque court, followed by tapas inspired by works like «The Clothed Maja» or «Saturn Devouring His Son,» created by nine Zaragoza establishments. Nearly 180 attendees savored Goya’s legacy.
Looking to the Future: A Commitment to Culture: Fernández admits: «Surpassing this exhibition will not be easy, but we are already working on high-level initiatives.» While the museum renovations last, Goya will remain in the Aljafería, and new activities will be announced. «We want to offer the best of this house to society,» she says, emphasizing the heritage value of the palace.
In a world where art unites borders, «Goya, from Museum to Palace» is not just an exhibition: it is a living dialogue between past and present, an Aragonese pride resonating globally. If you travel to Zaragoza, do not miss it; it is an invitation to rediscover Goya in his homeland, in a palace that beats with history.
